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Almodóvar Route

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  • Plaza Mayor in Almagro © Turespaña

    Plaza Mayor in Almagro © Turespaña


Following in Almodóvar's footsteps

A trip around the places where Pedro Almodóvar spent his childhood. The Oscar-winning director was inspired by his family and townspeople for most of his films. Campo de Calatrava, a natural and historic region, also has other attractions that will make our visit worthwhile.

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This route may be covered in one day because it is only 70 kilometres long. We'll start in the village of Almagro, a Renaissance and Baroque historic-artistic site, which is also a reference for the world of interpretation. In the streets of this town and with its people, Pedro Almodóvar filmed part of his famous film "Volver".

The only 17th century Corral de Comedias theatre in Spain, opened in 1626, is preserved in Almagro. It is also the last example in Europe of this kind of theatre. Nowadays in July it is the setting for the Almagro Classical Theatre Festival, when Spanish Golden Age plays are put on, like almost five centuries ago.

If we take a walk round Almagro we'll get to the Plaza Mayor, a perfect example of the popular architecture of La Mancha. We'll visit the Baroque churches of San Agustín and San Bartolomé el Real, the Gothic-Renaissance church of La Madre de Dios and the Renaissance convents of La Encarnación and La Asunción de Calatrava. We'll also find the Counts of Valdeparaíso Palace (18th century) or Los Fúcares Warehouse-Palace (16th century).

The second place to visit is Granátula de Calatrava, 11 kilometres away. In the distance from the road we can glimpse the windmills, which remind us that we are in the land of Don Quixote of La Mancha. Almodóvar chose several locations in this village for "Volver", and we'll easily be able to remember the opening scene in the cemetery. One of its important buildings is the Palace of the Torrubia family. Then it is worth taking the local road that goes to the chapel-shrine of Nuestra Señora de Otero y Zuqueca, an original 13th century site, situated next to an archaeological site with Iberian, Roman, Visigoth and Moorish remains.

On the way back to Granátula de Calatrava, we take the road to Calzada de Calatrava, the village where Almodóvar was born and spent his childhood, 11 kilometres away. Near there we'll visit the remains of two fortresses situated on two hills, one opposite the other: the Salvatierra Castle (Moorish origin) and Sacrosanct Convent-Castle of Calatrava la Nueva. In the municipality of Aldea del Rey, this religious-military Cistercian site was built in the 13th century, as one of the most important headquarters of the old Military Order of Calatrava.

We'll then head towards our last destinations: first, Aldea del Rey, where the Renaissance Clavería Palace stands out, and then, 26 kilometres away, Puertollano. Its mining tradition is preserved in the restored remains of its industrial architecture (shafts, gallows frames, mines, tips) and its open-air Mining Museum. The world premiere of "Volver" took place in its "Pedro Almodóvar" Theatre-Auditorium on 10 March 2006.

The visit to Puertollano is completed with the Gothic-Renaissance Church of La Asunción and the Paseo de San Gregorio, 19th century botanical gardens, with picturesque corners such as Casa de Baños (1850), an old medicinal spa, and Fuente Agria, a 19th century fountain-shrine. Puertollano is also the gateway to the Alcudia Valley and the natural setting of Sierra Morena.

Another particular feature of Campo de Calatrava is the volcanic origin of its land. It has a series of small lakes formed in the craters of old volcanoes.


What to see on the route

What to do

Cycle touring

Cycle touring


More information

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El doncel del caballero © Chicho

To be confirmed

Almagro Municipal Theatre - Almagro
International Children's Baroque Contest

Discover the surroundings See more

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